Russians were told about the benefits and risks of retinol in cosmetics

Retinol is called the gold standard of skin care, but does it really smooth out wrinkles, fight pigmentation and acne, or is it just a marketing myth? What results are real and how to use the drug safely were described in the journal Popular Science.

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that the body is able to synthesize from carotenoids found in food. However, for cosmetics, it is produced in the laboratory to keep active when applied to the skin.

"Its use in skin care, especially to treat signs of aging and sun damage, became more prominent about 20 years ago," said Gregory Keller, a plastic surgeon at Keller Plastic Surgery in California.

According to experts, the evidence for the effectiveness of over-the-counter retinol products remains contradictory. A review of nine clinical trials in 2021 showed that such drugs are often not superior to placebos, and positive results were more often recorded in studies funded by manufacturers. At the same time, prescription tretinoin has more convincing data: a review of seven studies in 2022 confirmed its effectiveness in reducing wrinkles, pigmentation and other age-related changes after just a month of use.

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Despite the limitations, doctors consider retinol to be an important element of care if its use is approached with realistic expectations.

"I always tell my patients that retinol is one of the most effective over—the-counter ingredients for improving skin texture, tone, and overall condition, but it's not a magic button for flawless skin. This is a long—term investment in skin health, not an instant decision," said Hannah Kopelman, a dermatologist at the DermOnDemand Clinic in New York.

As noted by Ha Lin Wu, a dermatologist at Dermatology Partners, over-the-counter retinols can help reduce pore size, fine lines, improve skin tone, and slow down photoaging, but these effects are subtle, require regular use, and don't show up for more than a few months. She also clarified that such products are ineffective for severe skin changes or severe forms of acne.

Doctors emphasized the importance of using the drug correctly. Kopelman warned that starting with a high concentration of retinol is dangerous, as it can cause irritation, flaking and redness. According to her, it is optimal to start with a concentration of 0.25–0.3% several times a week and gradually increase to 0.5%. She added that the most important advice for the safe and effective use of retinol is to start small and increase gradually.

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Doctors also remind you to take precautions. Keller noted that pregnant and lactating women should completely eliminate retinol. Kopelman warned that retinol can increase skin sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation, and Wu recommended "using a cream with an SPF of at least 30 daily and updating it every two hours of sun exposure."

Alternatives include bakuchiol, a plant compound that is similar in action but less irritating, and cosmetics with deficins (peptides that stimulate skin stem cells).

According to experts, the best and proven effect has so far been confirmed with prescription retinoids, while over-the-counter retinol is milder and requires patience.

"Retinol is just one part of the care. The greatest result comes from a combination of sun protection, regular care, and realistic expectations," Kopelman concluded.

Dermatocosmetologist Ekaterina Konstantinovskaya told Izvestia on August 29 about why sunscreen is needed not only in the heat, how to read the icons on the packaging and what filters are available.

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