Cosmetologist named effective ingredients for skin lifting effect

Cosmetics with a lifting effect can improve the density, elasticity and hydration of the skin, but they cannot replace surgical operations or hardware procedures. On August 29, Natalia Mikhailova, Candidate of Medical Sciences, dermatovenerologist, cosmetologist, founder of the Reforma network of aesthetic medicine clinics, told Izvestia about the components that help maintain skin quality.

"No cosmetic product is capable of providing the same lifting effect as a surgical operation or hardware procedure. At the same time, properly selected active ingredients can really increase the density and elasticity of the skin, improve its hydration, reduce the severity of fine wrinkles, visually make the contours of the face clearer and smooth the skin relief," Mikhailova noted.

The expert divided the lifting components into two main groups. The first category includes substances that give a quick visual effect. These are film-forming polymers and polysaccharides, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, collagen, as well as some protein and peptide complexes.

After application, such components form a thin film on the surface of the skin, which tightens it slightly and temporarily smoothes the microrelief. This makes fine wrinkles less noticeable. However, this effect persists only until the skin is cleansed.

Mikhailova called the components that affect its density, elasticity and renewal processes more significant for long-term improvement of the skin condition. One of the most studied substances in this group are retinoids. According to the cosmetologist, retinol and its derivatives are involved in the renewal of the epidermis and the formation of new collagen. With regular use, they can improve skin texture, reduce wrinkles, even out tone, and maintain tissue density.

The specialist named signaling peptides as another group of components. Among them are palmitoyl tripeptide—38, palmitoyl and others. Mikhailova emphasized that there is no single universal peptide that provides a pronounced anti-aging effect. Modern formulas more often include combinations of different peptides — signaling, matrix, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant.

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According to the expert, such combinations help to work with several processes related to skin aging at once, and with prolonged use they can help increase its density and reduce the severity of wrinkles.

At the same time, the cosmetologist noted the importance of the complex composition of the products. For example, vitamin C helps protect the skin from oxidative stress and participates in the synthesis of collagen. Hyaluronic acid, amino acids, squalane, niacinamide and Centella Asiatica extract support hydration and the skin barrier. According to the expert, well-hydrated skin looks smoother, firmer and fuller, so this effect can also be perceived as a visual lifting.

Mikhailova said that at a young age, sun protection, antioxidants, hydration and maintenance of the skin barrier should remain the basis of care. More active ingredients, including retinoids and peptides, can be used when signs of age-related changes appear and if indicated.

For dry skin, the expert recommends combining active anti-age components with substances that restore the protective barrier, such as hyaluronic acid, squalane and ceramides. For oily and combination skin, retinoids may be suitable, which simultaneously help to work with signs of aging and skin features prone to rashes.

For sensitive skin, according to Mikhailova, you should start by restoring the barrier and reducing reactivity. In this case, soothing peptides, allantoin and squalane can be used, and more active agents should be introduced gradually.

On August 17, dermatologist, Doctor of Medical Sciences Yulia Gallyamova told how bed linen affects the skin condition. According to her, this organ has its own microbiome, a community of microorganisms that helps maintain protective functions. With conditions such as acne, rosacea, seborrheic dermatitis, atopic dermatitis and eczema, the skin becomes more sensitive to external stimuli.