The trichologist named the main mistakes in hair care

Modern trichology departs from the simplified division of hair into "dry", "oily" and "normal", considering them together with the scalp as a single system where the appearance reflects the internal processes of the body. Yulia Gallyamova, MD, dermatologist and trichologist, told Izvestia on February 2 about medical hair types, principles of care selection and cases when cosmetics stop helping.

According to the expert, in clinical practice, the condition of the scalp is considered a key parameter. It determines how healthy the growing hair will be. The doctor explained that from a medical point of view, there is a distinction between normal skin with moderate sebaceous glands, oily skin with a tendency to rapid contamination and dermatological problems, dry skin with a feeling of tightness and peeling, and combined skin, in which the roots remain oily and the length dries out.

In addition to the scalp, trichologists evaluate the structure of the hair itself: its thickness, density, porosity, and shape. These parameters are important both for the diagnosis of diseases and for the selection of care. Thin hair loses volume faster and is easier to damage, dense hair is more stable but less flexible. Porosity determines the ability to retain moisture: low-porosity hair shines but does not absorb products well, high-porosity hair dries out quickly and breaks more often. The shape — straight, wavy or curly — is determined genetically and directly affects the care requirements.

"The genetic program of hair can be compared to a piano: the keys are set, but the melody depends on many factors," the specialist said.

Genetics, as she emphasized, sets only the initial scenario, which can change under the influence of hormonal fluctuations, chronic stress, endocrine disorders and general health. In clinical practice, there are cases when even the shape of the hair changes over time, but such processes have not yet been fully studied.

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The specialist called the confusion of the concepts of scalp type and hair type one of the common mistakes of patients. With oily skin, the roots do become greasy faster, but the length of the hair often remains dry due to aggressive shampoos and frequent cleansing. In such situations, it is important not to give up washing, but to protect the length with balms and masks.

Brittleness and thinning, according to the doctor, do not always mean the onset of baldness. Improper care can create the illusion of alopecia, whereas in the absence of follicle damage, the condition of the hair can be corrected.

In home care, Gallyamova advises to focus primarily on the type of scalp, observe an adequate frequency of washing and be sure to use conditioning products, especially for long hair. Among the frequent mistakes she mentioned were over-drying with aggressive products, insufficient skin cleansing and styling without thermal protection.

Some home appliances, including low-intensity laser devices, have clinical recommendations, however, as the expert noted, they work only with the correct indications and regular use. Salon treatments often improve the appearance, but do not eliminate the causes of problems if the scalp remains unhealthy.

Any persistent changes in the condition of the hair and scalp, the doctor emphasized, require specialist advice. Self-medication in such cases is rarely effective.

On January 27, Gallyamova stated that hair loss is not a diagnosis, but a symptom that can accompany a variety of conditions, from stress and infections to hormonal and autoimmune diseases. She clarified that each form of alopecia has its own mechanism of development, prognosis and treatment approach. The topic of vitamin and micronutrient deficiencies is often interpreted incorrectly today. The deviations revealed in the analyses are not always the direct cause of hair loss, although the lack of basic nutrients, primarily protein and iron, is really important, but is more often manifested by thinning and deterioration of hair quality, rather than their intense loss.

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