I read the collection: what Igor Gulyaev showed at Moscow Fashion Week

The fifth day of Moscow Fashion Week ended in the capital on March 17. The collections were presented by more than ten brands. The final show was held by designer Igor Gulyaev, well-known to the Russian and foreign public. On the catwalk, he presented a reinterpretation of fashion at the turn of the 19th-20th centuries under the influence of modern trends. For more information, see the Izvestia report, which was among the viewers of the show.

Igor Gulyaev's fashion show at Moscow Fashion Week

The history of Igor Gulyaev's Fashion House dates back to 2009, when his debut collection was created. At the same time, a fateful event occurred in his career — Whitney Houston appeared in his product on the stage of the Ice Palace in St. Petersburg, who gave a concert there. Lara Fabian, Montserrat Caballe, and Ornella Muti shone behind her in Gulyaev's outfits. And this is not the whole list of foreign stars with whom the designer collaborated.

He also has a lot of fans among the domestic public. Joseph Prigozhin and Valeria were among the first to attend his Fashion Week show in Moscow.

— Igor and I have been friends for a long time. He took part in a landmark event in my life, a concert at the Albert Hall. I went on stage in his couture outfits, and we conquered London. His main muse is his mother, whom he adores and idolizes. It seems to me that he projects this attitude on all women by creating these outfits," the singer told Izvestia.

Nina Semyonovna appeared on the backstage an hour before the start of the show, backstage at the podium. There you could also watch the birth of Gulyaev's heroes, all with narrow green eyebrows and long nails.

— On the one hand, this is an overlap of Marlene Dietrich, on the other hand, it is a modern culture where long stiletto nails are in fashion. We take contrasting stylistic directions and we get something unique," Elina Kambarova, a member of Igor Gulyaev's team, shared with Izvestia.

The autumn-winter 25/26 collection was named "Back, yesterday— today... Tomorrow...". She invites you to travel through time, where the elegant evening silhouettes of past eras, the bohemian chic of the 90s and the freedom of the 2000s, the eclectic fashion of our days and the idea of the future are intertwined. Female images balance on the edge of strength and fragility. In men's rooms, there is power, structure and a play of textures: heavy fabrics and strict silhouettes.

— This collection is the strongest in my entire history. Approximately 60% are from couture, sewn by hand. A very serious level of performance, in addition to beauty, style and an amazing period in fashion at the turn of the XIX-XX centuries. This is the Gatsby of the 21st century. It's beautiful! That's cool! A man looks like a man, a woman looks like a woman, and together they are an amazing tandem," Igor Gulyaev told Izvestia before the show.

According to the designer, he has been collecting all this for several years, since the time of the pandemic.

"I'm honestly tired of simple casual clothes,— Gulyaev confessed. — We have learned how to make a cool product in the country. Yes, it's difficult for us, yes — it's hard with craftsmen, there are few of them, yes — it's hard with fabrics and fittings. But if you love work, you'll find everything.

Igor Gulyaev Theater

The first appearance set the tone for the whole show — it was rather a theatrical performance. It wasn't the models parading down the catwalk, but the characters, as if they were the familiar cover of an old book or a black-and-white movie, languidly and thoughtfully strolling along the rainy evening street to meet you. Then we come across a group of six young guys. Behind them is an elegant young couple. Everything is accompanied by a heart-rending nostalgic musical design.

The main accessory was a pocket round watch on a chain, like those once worn by gentlemen, and the headdress was an eight-pointed cap, like the heroes of "Sharp Visors". Guleyava's collection has sharp collars, as well as long cuffs and frills. This voice of the past resonates with the present and mixes with the fashionable leopard with the designer's light hand. It is found in coats, collars, berets, bags.

Last year, Lolita appeared on the catwalk of Moscow Fashion Week during Igor Gulyaev's show as a model. Whether there will be any surprises in terms of casting this year was one of the intrigues. In this sense, the designer remained stable. Lolita closed the show again. The 61-year-old singer appeared in front of the public in a long fitted dress with an open back. And after the designer himself, the guests greeted him with applause. In the front row were Mitya Fomin, Sergey Zverev, Katya Lel.

— It is with great pleasure that I appear on stage and in everyday life in his gorgeous images and costumes. I love his work! He is generally unpredictable, a very extraordinary creative person," Katya Lel shared with Izvestia.

There are 15 more shows ahead. The final day of Moscow Fashion Week will feature shows by Pia Lindsay Studio (USA), Masterpeace (Moscow), INNIKI by Isabella Dordosova (Yakutsk) and other brands.