A figgy twist: what are the interesting things chefs cook with figs?
Figs are one of the most ancient foods known to mankind: they appeared in the human diet long before many fruits that are familiar today. At the same time, the real renaissance of figs in restaurant gastronomy has happened only in recent years, and this autumn it has again become the focus of attention of many chefs. "Izvestia" found out whether it is possible to make a full-fledged menu of fig positions and what is prepared with it for an appetizer, as a main course and for dessert in different regions of Russia.
A sweet beginning
The popularity of figs in restaurant gastronomy lies in its special, almost unique properties. This product has a bright but not aggressive taste with recognizable sweetness and light honey notes. There are other reasons why figs have recently become so popular with chefs and guests.
— The fig fruit itself looks impressive: rich color, interesting texture, neat shape. On a plate, it immediately attracts attention and makes the dish photogenic, which is also important today," Arif Najji, brand chef of Meat_Coin restaurants (Moscow and St. Petersburg), told "Izvestia". — In addition, products with pronounced seasonality are especially appreciated now. Figs are just such a product: they have a short but vibrant season, and when they appear on the market, you want to actively use them. Finally, there is a consistently high interest in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine, where figs are a traditional ingredient. Many chefs are inspired by these gastronomic traditions and bring successful combinations to their menus.
Salad with figs and smoked Greek yogurt
In the salad from the special Meat_Coin menu, built around figs, this product works as a link between the smoked depth of yogurt and fresh herbs. Dense, but already ripe fruits smooth out smoky notes with their sweetness and are gently combined with crunchy pine nuts, pomegranate seeds, arugula or young spinach. The dressing contains a little balsamic vinegar, honey and extra virgin olive oil, which just refer to the Mediterranean flavors. Another dish is fig carpaccio with aged parmesan and pomegranate. Thin, almost translucent slices of fruit are sprinkled with grated cheese: its saltiness and umami emphasize the fruity sweetness, turning a simple combination into an appetizer, where several bright components add up to a harmonious ensemble.
Fig carpaccio with cheese and pomegranate
It is carpaccio with figs that is becoming the most popular snack during the season of this product. Chefs combine a variety of ingredients in it, guided by their own inspiration and imagination.
"For me, figs are not only a dessert fruit, but a full—fledged gastronomic tool that allows you to create several layers in a dish at once and harmoniously support other ingredients," says the brand chef of the Podmoskovnye Vechery restaurant (Moscow region) Andrey Nesterenko. — In my carpaccio, figs give sweetness and juiciness, dried goose — salt and meat flavor, gorgonzola — fat content and piquancy, and tarragon adds freshness.
Camembert in crispy breading with fried figs and grapes
When choosing figs, our expert does not single out any one particular variety as universally the best. For example, he likes Black Mission for its bright sweet taste with berry and honey tones, and Brown Turkey is well suited for savory dishes due to its more relaxed taste profile. At the same time, the degree of maturity and quality of a particular batch of figs is much more important for the chef, since a well-ripened and already soft fruit that has been properly stored and transported will be much more interesting than an unripe product, even of a premium variety. Good fresh figs mainly come to Russia from Turkey, but there are also high-quality samples from Iran, Armenia and Uzbekistan.
Closer to the sea
The range of snacks with figs is constantly expanding, and today it can already be found not only in combinations with meat, cheese or herbs, but also in dishes with fish and seafood.
— In fact, figs are very well suited to fish and seafood, it's just that for most it's not the most obvious combination yet, — says Dmitry Doychev, brand chef of the Ryba Family sushi bar chain (Moscow). — It has a pleasant natural sweetness, a slight sourness and an interesting texture. Therefore, it can work in much the same way as fruits that we are already accustomed to combine with fish: mango, citrus, apple or grapes.
Fig roll
In his special menu, our interlocutor decided to look at figs from the point of view of Japanese cuisine, where the balance of sweetness, acidity, saltiness, umami and textures is especially important. Therefore, the Ryba Family did not just add fruit to already familiar dishes, but tried to make it a full-fledged part of the flavor composition. In a mix with yellowfin tuna, figs are responsible for sweetness and juiciness, adding a fruity depth to the taste-neutral fish, while edamame, cucumber and avocado add freshness, crunch and creamy texture. In a roll with salmon, cream cheese, cucumber and avocado, figs give a natural fruity sweetness, which is combined with the rest of the ingredients mango sauce. And the brand chef considers scallop carpaccio to be the most subtle combination: seafood's own sweetness does not require competition, so figs only emphasize it, and shiso and truffle sauce add a grassy freshness, earthy note and umami.
Scallop carpaccio with figs
According to the expert, figs are best combined with foods with high fat content or natural sweetness. He especially distinguishes salmon, tuna, eel and more delicate white fish from fish, scallops, shrimp and crab from seafood. At the same time, it is important to control the amount of figs: if the dish already has mango, sweet sauce or other sweet ingredient, it should be a little. Acid, salt, citrus fruits, shiso, ginger, wasabi, soy sauce and products with pronounced umami help to balance the fruity note. You also need to understand that figs in such combinations should become an element of the overall balance, and not a separate sweet ingredient. And if it is the fruit that is felt first during tasting, it means that there is most likely too much of it. A good combination works differently — the taste of fish or seafood is revealed first, and figs gradually manifest themselves and make it more interesting.
Crisp effect
The combination of figs with dough can already be considered classic today, and both of these ingredients are often combined in establishments equipped with their own ovens.
"If you go deeper into history, the first mentions of figs can be found in Ancient Greece, Rome and Babylon," explained Alexey Polyakov, brand chef of the Zio Vini restaurant (Moscow), to Izvestia. — And all of them are connected with dough products that were brought as gifts to the gods. In addition, before the advent of sugar, figs were used as a natural sweetener.
Pizzetta with figs, salami and stracciatella
In Zio Vini, figs are added to the pizza after baking: fresh fruits are spread on salami and a base with cheese bechamel and mozzarella. Here, the combination is based on several contrasts at once — crispy dough is contrasted with soft figs, and the salinity of the sausage and the fat content of the melted cheese are balanced by its sweetness. The strachatella completes the composition, which adds creaminess and freshness.
Pizza with figs and mortadella
Pizza with figs invariably appears in early autumn and in the Pizza 22 cm pizzeria chain (Moscow and St. Petersburg). This year they presented another novelty, with figs, mortadella, cream, mozzarella, almonds, porto sauce and basil. In addition, tempura eggplant with strachatella and figs is prepared here. According to brand chef Ildar Bedretdinov, the idea came about during the boom in crispy eggplant. Initially, they were served everywhere with Uzbek tomatoes, and the chef decided to rethink the combination in an Italian way, adding arugula, strachatella and figs. Since then, it has been one of the most popular items on the menu.
Eggplant tempura with figs
— Figs are ideal for hot dishes: they can be used fresh or lightly baked, the main thing is not to overdo it in the heat so that the fruit does not turn into porridge, — says brand chef Bedretdinov. — It goes well with hot cheeses, meat and vegetables, including eggplant. Many people don't realize, but figs are also great friends with zucchini.
Playing on contrasts
Seasonal figs are sure to appear in the main hot dishes, where its natural sweetness helps to reveal the rich taste of meat. It behaves especially interestingly after heat treatment, acquiring caramel notes.
"Fresh figs are quite delicate, with a slight sweetness and a characteristic texture, and when heated, they become softer, richer, almost jam—like," Andrey Gryazev, brand chef of the Baran Rapan restaurant (Sochi), shared his observation. — If you give it contact with a high temperature, as on a grill, the sugars on the surface caramelize and deeper, toasty notes appear.
Stewed beef rib with Asian-style sauce and grilled figs
In the special September menu, our interlocutor uses figs in two meat positions at once, but works with them in different ways. In a dish with a stewed beef rib, the fruit is grilled: due to the high temperature, it retains its shape and acquires a light campfire flavor. This technique helps to create a contrast with long-cooked meat and a rather intense Asian-style sauce, adding sweetness and a fruity note to the dish.
Roast lamb tongues with pumpkin cream, figs and port wine sauce
Figs work differently with lamb tongues — here they become part of a more autumnal composition with pumpkin cream and port wine sauce. Delicate tongues do not require too bright a fruity accent, so figs rather combine the sweetness of pumpkin, the richness of strong wine and the meaty taste. As a result, one seasonal product is revealed in two opposite roles: in one dish it creates a contrast with meat, and in the other it combines several flavors into a single composition.
The final chord
Figs seem to have been specially created for desserts: they have an expressive sweetness, juicy flesh and interesting texture that easily fit into a variety of combinations. But since this fruit is sweet enough in itself, restaurants try to find the right environment for it, in which its own taste will sound like a separate bright note, without being too cloying.
Figs with goat cheese cream and lavender
A good example is figs with goat cheese parfait and lavender in Meat_Coin. In it, brand chef Nigi plays on the contrast of textures and flavors. A delicate cream based on cream, vanilla, white chocolate and cheese is contrasted with the juicy, slightly grainy flesh of the fruit. The figs are served fresh, cut into thin slices, or lightly caramelized in a frying pan with a little oil and a pinch of sugar. In the second case, it gets a light crust and a deeper taste. The dessert is complemented by crushed pistachios or almonds, which add a crunch and a nutty note that goes well with the fruity sweetness.
Milfey with figs
Figs are also used in more complex desserts. At Zio Vini, milfeu, panna cotta and tarte with custard and basil are prepared with it. According to brand chef Polyakov, the sweetness of figs creates the right contrast with the milky and creamy taste of panna cotta and adds a play of textures in combination with puff pastry cakes. In milfey, the fruit helps to balance the sweetness of the patissier cream, and in the tart, the shortbread. All three desserts use a sauce of stewed fresh figs with jerusalem artichoke syrup, which additionally gives a honey note.
Tart with figs
According to Andrey Gryazev, the brand chef of "Baran-Rapan" restaurant, nzhir works especially well in desserts with contrasting textures and a not too aggressive base - in tartlets, eclairs and open pies, as well as in combination with cream—based or soft cheese-based creams and ice cream. The fruit can be baked or slightly caramelized, but the chef prefers to leave at least part of the figs as close to the fresh state as possible.
Eclair with figs, custard and creamy caramel
This is exactly how the eclair in "Baran Rapan" is built, in which custard gives a soft base, creamy caramel gives a deeper, slightly toasted taste, and fresh figs add lightness and a characteristic grainy texture. Thanks to this, the dessert does not turn into just a sweet dish, but retains the recognizable taste of a seasonal product.
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