The salt of the question: how fermentation became a fashion trend in haute cuisine
Pickled and soaked foods have always been a distinctive feature of traditional Russian cuisine, but in restaurant gastronomy, dishes with them at some point began to be perceived as too simple and homemade. However, this situation has changed in recent years, largely due to the fashion that developed after the publication in 2018 of the book "Noma Fermentation Guide" by one of the ideologists of the new Scandinavian cuisine, Dane Rene Redzepi. Many Russian chefs remembered this simple and affordable technology again and began to actively apply it in the kitchen. Izvestia looked at which vegetables, fruits, mushrooms and berries are used for leavening today by artisans in different regions of our country and what dishes are prepared with them.
What are the benefits of urination and fermentation
Fermentation technology is now widely used by chefs all over the world to create complex, vibrant, and unique flavors. Sauerkraut, kimchi, and soaked apples have become full-fledged ingredients in haute cuisine. In addition, this technology perfectly combines with the current zero-waste philosophy, which involves maximizing the use of products.
Assorted pickles
"Fermentation is not a grandmother's technology, but a new gastronomic high—tech, only without silicon and chips," Alexander Mordashov, brand chef of the Baikal cuisine restaurant Lamu (Irkutsk), told Izvestia. — Fermentation is a global trend today, but in fact it is something that our ancestors have been doing for hundreds of years. The only difference is that we now have a better understanding of microbiology, regulate the acidity, temperature, and control system, and can direct the processes so that the product plays with new flavors.
Our interlocutor believes that the growing popularity of fermented foods is also largely due to the interest of guests in "live" food prepared as a result of natural processes. People are tired of sterile industrial food and want to enjoy gastronomy with pronounced and complex flavors.
Dried beetroot after fermentation
—Soaked and pickled products are interesting because they give a natural acidity and a complex aromatic profile that cannot be obtained with ordinary marinade or vinegar," adds the brand chef of Touch Chef's Place & Nikita Kuzmenko Bar (Moscow). — It is a combination of lactic acid freshness, light sweetness and enzymatic notes that work as a natural flavor enhancer.
According to the expert, such products are ideal for modern restaurant gastronomy, as they add depth of taste and balance to dishes, refresh heavy ingredients and create a characteristic crispy texture that may vary depending on the degree of fermentation.
"During lactic fermentation, the product is placed in a salty environment in which only beneficial lactic acid bacteria can survive,— explained Viktor Shaidetsky, chef of the Manul restaurant (Moscow). — They feed on the natural sugars in the product and convert them into lactic acid. And this is the same substance that is found in cheese, kefir, yogurt and other healthy dairy products. Lactic acid supports the functioning of the gastrointestinal tract and has a beneficial effect on the microflora.
Mushrooms in pickle from sauerkraut
The gastronomic value of lactofermented products also lies in the fact that they allow you to extend the use of seasonal local vegetables and fruits, adds the brand chef of the restaurant Tunguska (Krasnoyarsk) Nikolai Bobrov. For example, green asparagus has a very short season in May, but it can be fermented in brine and then used in salads and sauces later. This not only allows you to enjoy your favorite foods for longer, but also stabilizes costs and, consequently, prices for meals in the restaurant.
How do the approaches to fermentation differ in different regions of Russia
The fermentation technology of products in different parts of our country is generally similar, but there are regional peculiarities associated with the use of some purely local products.
"We have a pronounced local specificity in the North, because fermentation is one of the most common and recognizable ways to preserve and enhance taste in our region," the brand chef of the Roomi restaurant (Arkhangelsk) told our publication Andrey Anikiev. — Traditionally, cabbage is fermented here, radishes are soaked in kvass, almost all northern berries, as well as herring fish and cod. Another classic example is soaked redheads. It is this tradition and continuity of practice that makes the taste of fermented products from the Arkhangelsk region so distinctive and recognizable.
Pickled carrots with sea buckthorn
Our expert is particularly interested in working with fish and northern berries. Recently, he began experimenting with Petrovich cranberries, which are cultivated right in the swamps. It tastes like wild apples. The brand chef adds this soaked berry to a dish with millet malt porridge and mashed bear. After fermentation, the berry becomes very bright and perfectly combines with wild meat, enhancing its taste.
— Soaked berries are especially popular in our strip and in the taiga part of Siberia, — says brand chef Bobrov. — In addition, since we have a huge number of mushrooms, it is also customary to send them for lactic fermentation with the addition of salt. But a lot depends on the type of mushroom and what kind of dish we are preparing this semi-finished product for.
The Tunguska restaurant also makes lactofermented plums and uses them in sauces and demiglas. Another favorite product of the chef is gooseberries. Its carbonated taste with a slight sourness and natural sweetness works perfectly with fish, both independently and as a sauce. Fermented berries are used in sugudai, ceviche, salads and snacks.
Sockeye salmon ceviche with compression cucumber in green sauce on peppers, jalapeno and fermented gooseberry
According to Chef Shaidetsky, the specifics of the capital lie more in the approach than in specific products. Moscow has always been a junction point between tradition and modernity, so here, on the one hand, classic Russian preparations (cabbage, apples, cucumbers) are actively used, on the other hand, they experiment with new ingredients and techniques. Experiments with salted plums, apples, and peaches are very interesting, which can even be used in desserts. Mushrooms are traditionally cooked differently: they are salted with a lot of salt to preserve the crunch, but there is less full-fledged fermentation.
— We like to work with root crops, as they almost always give stable results, — adds our interlocutor. — For example, fermented carrots seasoned with kimchi spices give a taste similar to real carrots in Korean, but more complex and gastronomic. Salted jerusalem artichoke or celery are ideal for cold appetizers, accentuate the taste of fish and game.
The Moscow traditions of pickling products are also close to the chef of the restaurant Kislovsky (Moscow), Vitaly Hegai. And this is no coincidence, because in the area where his establishment is located, in the 17th century, there was a Kislovskaya Sloboda, where sour farmers lived and worked, supplying cabbage soup, pickles and kvass to the royal table. Cranberries from the northern forests, antonovka from the central regions and the best mushrooms were brought here.
Tartare with soaked fennel
— In Moscow houses and restaurants, there used to be a tradition of wetting antonovka with rye straw and mustard powder, — our interlocutor shares historical details. — I studied the recipes of that time, and integrated many things into our dishes. I like working with pickles because they give that acidity and flavor that cannot be recreated with other ingredients. I prefer to cook soaked mushrooms rather than salted ones. Lactic acid fermentation gives them a special, mild acidity and a more complex flavor.
Brand chef Mordashov prepares cabbage (in the classic version and with beetroot) in his restaurant, ferments cucumbers, green and ripe tomatoes, carrots, jerusalem artichoke and daikon, ferments cranberries and sea buckthorn, which are perfectly revealed in combination with white chocolate. According to him, the juice from pickling can also be used as natural vinegar or as a base for marinades. And brine is suitable as a base for non-alcoholic cocktails, carbonated fruit drinks, kombucha and other similar drinks.
"Fermentations have long become a separate language of expression in modern gastronomy, not just a technique," brand chef Kuzmenko is convinced. — I work a lot with mushrooms — they give a natural umami and earthy, which cannot be artificially repeated. In mushroom dishes, they work as a depth enhancer, especially in broths and cold appetizers. The liquid from lactofermented porcini mushrooms alone is worth something.
Salted honey mushrooms
Our interlocutor also mentioned grapes and black currants among the pickled products. These berries give a bright, pure fruit acid and a light natural sweetness. They perfectly refresh fatty dishes and add a lively contrast to them. Our expert also likes to work with young pickled cherry blossoms, which give off a slight sharpness, herbal character and a subtle garlic note.
What you need to know about home fermentation
Taking this opportunity, we asked our interlocutors to share their experiences and give us some practical tips on working with household preparations.
— When fermenting cabbage, add thinly sliced pear slices, some finely chopped celery and fennel seeds to it — this mix will give an unusual and interesting taste, — advises chef Hegai. — And soaked Antonov apples or pears can be added to a honey sponge cake layer, or as a base for a sauce for cheesecakes or ice cream. This will make the dessert less cloying, but rather refreshing with an excellent balance of sweetness.
According to Chef Shaidetsky, many make the mistake of overexposing pickled foods in the initial warm phase. On the 5th –7th day, such preparations become excessively acidic. Therefore, you should not wait so long, but it is better to bring the product to light fermentation and put it in the refrigerator for a month on the 2nd or 3rd day. There, this process will slow down and the blanks will "ripen" to a more balanced taste.
Venison tartare with sauerkraut and pecorino cheese
"I almost always add a currant leaf to pickled vegetables — it gives an expressive aroma and freshness,— brand chef Anikiev shares his experience. — And we traditionally pickle cabbage after the first frost, so it turns out crispy, dense and sweeter in taste. In general, even a small amount of soaked or pickled foods in a homemade dish immediately adds depth and gastronomy to it.: It's the natural acidity, the enzymatic complexity, and the "liveliness" of taste that makes food voluminous.
Brand chef Kuzmenko advises adding pickled vegetables to hot dishes at the very end, so they will retain their crunch and flavor. This rule works great with stews, roasts, and stewed vegetables. Soaked apples can be an ideal base for sauces. Mash them into a puree, add mustard, honey and a little oil and you will get a full-fledged gastronomic sauce for poultry or pork.
"When experimenting with different products at home, it's important to consider their texture," warns brand chef Bobrov. — Berries, pumpkins and other autumn fruits that are easily destroyed should not be soaked — they should be fermented in brine with the presence of 3% salt and at a temperature of 20 degrees.
Переведено сервисом «Яндекс Переводчик»
